Climbing Blogs

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2019

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Betsy and I spent five days backpacking and climbing in and above Little Lakes Valley in the Sierra in June 2019. Here is my blog of our trip.

  • Day 1: Sunday, June 16. Betsy and I arrive at the Mosquito Flat trailhead; this is the end of Rock Creek Road at 10,300 ft and the usual start for backpacking in Little Lakes Valley; however, we had to start lower, about a mile and a half back, because several snow patches on the road had not been plowed
  • Betsy crosses one of the last bridges on our pack in; after this the trail became less distinct, and we crossed streams on rocks or snow bridges
  • Our spectacular campsite was on the rock bench immediately to the right of partially frozen Long Lake; our climbing objectives were the rightmost and leftmost of the four peaks in the distance: Mount Dade (13,600 ft+) and Pyramid Peak (12,840 ft+)
  • Day 2: Monday, June 17. We climbed Mount Dade, the high peak on the right; most of the climb was on snow; the steep, 1,000-ft Hourglass in the middle was the hardest part; we originally planned to camp at the Treasure Lakes, shown here, but realized once we got to Long Lake that they would still be frozen over
  • View down from the top of the Hourglass to the Treasure Lakes and Long Lake; we still had another 1,000 ft to climb on mixed snow and rock to the summit; the snow above was not so steep but softer, so we often postholed to our knees
  • After two more hours of exhausting climbing, we reached the summit of Mount Dade! Here I am on top with Mount Abbot to the right of center
  • View from the summit down the last part of the climb; the top of the Hourglass is at the lower left; Bear Creek Spire is the prominent peak in the upper center; the cloudless sky of the morning was replaced by ominous clouds nearby
  • Betsy documented our climb in the summit register; as she noted, we had some drama on the last part of the climb, including snow, hail, and thunder! Some rugged guy from Madison did a winter climb this year on skis!
  • Day 3: Tuesday, June 18. After 13 hours of climbing and descending the day before, we decided to enjoy an easy day; here Betsy reads in our kitchen above Long Lake 🙂
  • This is our bedroom, next to the kitchen 🙂 My clothes are drying after getting soaked in the snow the day before; in the afternoon, we hiked up the talus slope in the middle to the base of the granite tower
  • Here I am near the top of the talus slope with Long Lake below
  • Betsy and I savor the stunning scenery; Bear Creek Spire is on the left, while Mounts Abbot and Mills are on the right; Mount Dade is behind us, out of view
  • Day 4: Wednesday, June 19. Today’s objective is Pyramid Peak on the left; we went right of frozen Dade Lake and then left up the snow and eventually the rock
  • Betsy climbs yet another steep snow slope; we used crampons going up and an ice ax going both up and down
  • Betsy nears the top of the climb; we traversed alternating ribs and chutes until we found a way to the summit
  • Betsy touches the summit cairn! By the time we got back to Long Lake (in the distance), we had spent 14 hours climbing and descending! The next day, we had an easy pack out 🙂

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2015

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Betsy and I spent five days backpacking and climbing in the Sierra in June 2015. We did a big clockwise loop that took us through the Evolution Basin where many peaks are named after famous scientists who did pioneering work in evolution and genetics. We climbed three mountains, packed over three passes (one without a trail), got snowed on the last two days, and did not see another person from the time we left the trailhead until just before we returned.

My blog of our wilderness adventure follows.

  • Day 1: Monday, June 1. Betsy is at North Lake for the start of our wilderness adventure.
  • Betsy packs above Lower Lamarck Lake.
  • North Lake, where we started, is the second lake far below to the northeast. Owens Valley and the White Mountains are in the distance.
  • The trail is steep as we approach camp.
  • I am still clean and wearing shorts just below camp.
  • Day 2: Tuesday, June2. We pack up to Lamarck Col on snow.
  • This is the view of Mt Lamarck north of the col.
  • Betsy is on top of Mt Lamarck at 13,417 ft with the slightly higher Peak 13,464 in back to the northwest. We climbed both.
  • Mts Wallace and Haeckel are prominent to the south. We made their first ascents of the year in 2013 when there was less snow.
  • Mts Darwin and Mendel are closer and even more prominent to the south. We decided that there was too much snow for us to climb them.
  • This is Darwin Canyon to the west of Lamarck Col.
  • This curious marmot came close as we made our camp in Darwin Canyon.
  • Day 3: Wednesday, June 3. Betsy packs through Darwin Canyon.
  • The canyon opens up to this view to the west of Darwin Bench.
  • We pack north toward our camp at the far end of the frozen lake. Mt Goethe, our afternoon climbing objective, is the rounded peak on the left.
  • We leave our packs at camp and climb Mt Goethe to the west. Betsy follows me up the summit ridge.
  • Betsy finds the summit register. We make the first ascent of the year!
  • Betsy poses on the summit of Mt Goethe at 13,264 ft. Our camp is at the isthmus between the two lakes below. We get back to camp at 8:45 pm.
  • Day 4: Thursday, June 4. We leave camp and pack north over the trail-less Alpine Col.
  • This is the view south from the col. Our camp the night before was at the far end of the lake.
  • This is the view north from the Col. We need to go down to Goethe Lake where we will camp.
  • Packing down the huge talus blocks is tedious. A few snowflakes begin to fall to add to the drama.
  • Betsy tries the snow instead and postholes, so that is just as bad.
  • Eventually we make it to our camp at Goethe Lake after a hard day. New snow is coming.
  • Day 5: Friday, June 5. We awake to a sunny day after an inch of snow overnight. We still have more talus to traverse to the left of the lake.
  • Betsy packs out past the last of the talus as snow starts to fall again. Mt Goethe is to the left of center.
  • Mt Humphreys, Checkered Demon, and Mt Emerson are the three prominent peaks north of Muriel Lake. A good trail begins on the other side of the lake.
  • Betsy reaches Paiute Pass and the junction with the trail out. It is snowing again with occasional lightning and thunder!
  • I head down through the last of the snowflakes. Thankfully the lightning in the clouds overhead ends.
  • I touch our car back at North Lake to officially end our wilderness adventure 🙂

Mount Shasta Climbing Trip in 2013

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Betsy and I climbed Mount Shasta at 14,179 ft in June 2013 for our second climbing trip of the year. Here is our itinerary for this two-day trip.

Day 1 (Saturday, June 8): Drive from Oakland to the town of Mount Shasta to eat lunch. Drive from town to the Bunny Flat trailhead at 6,950 ft. Pack 4-1/2 hours up the trail in Avalanche Gulch to Helen Lake at 10,400 ft where we camp for the night.
Day 2 (Sunday, June 9): Leave Helen Lake at dawn, and climb to the summit and back in 9 hours. Pack out in 2-1/2 hours, have dinner in town, and drive back to Oakland.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather. It was in the 50s with no wind when we were on the summit. Two days later the forecast was for a high in the 30s with gusts to 70 mph!

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Saturday, June 8. We enjoy this nice view of Mount Shasta from a turnout on I-5.
  • We get our wilderness permit and summit pass at the Bunny Flat trailhead.
  • We put on our packs are are ready to climb up the standard Avalanche Gulch route, which is above Betsy’s head.
  • After a short way we get to Horse Camp where Betsy fills up her water bottle from this spring coming out of a pile of rocks. This is the only running water on the climb.
  • Further up the trail these white pasqueflowers are growing out of the rocks.
  • A cloud of dust marks a rockfall, which stopped before reaching us.
  • We follow footprints in the snow as we head for Helen Lake. It is the broad rocky ridge in the right center of the picture, and the only water there is frozen as snow.
  • We camp on a flat spot with a great view of the forests far below!
  • After setting up camp we check out our climbing route for the next day. It goes up the snow to the right of The Heart and then through Red Banks to the summit ridge. You can see tracks in the snow from previous climbers.
  • Day 2: Sunday, June 9. After a restless night we are awakened by early risers who start the climb with headlamps in the dark.
  • We wait until the light of dawn before starting our climb. We won’t get lost with all of the climbers ahead of us.
  • As we approach The Heart we have this great view of the shadow of Mount Shasta to the west. I stop for awhile to catch my breath since I have not had time to acclimate to the altitude.
  • The crux of the climb is going through this notch in Red Banks, which are well named.
  • Betsy follows the trail higher up where the snow has melted.
  • Betsy poses with the summit on the upper right. The weather is great!
  • Betsy waits for me on the summit as every step I take is a struggle in the thin air. We have a lot of company.
  • We briefly have the highest point to ourselves.
  • Going down is easy, especially where we can glissade on the snow above and below Red Banks.
  • By the time we get back to camp the mountain seems deserted. We pack up and make good time going down to finish another great adventure!

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2013

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Betsy and I climbed Mounts Haeckel and Wallace in May 2013. Here is our itinerary for this three-day trip.

Day 1 (Sunday, May 26): Pack from the trailhead at Lake Sabrina (9,128 ft) to camp at Midnight Lake (10,988 ft). We go 7 miles in 5-1/2 hours.
Day 2 (Monday, May 27): Climb Mounts Haeckel (13,418 ft) and Wallace (13,377 ft). This takes us 12-1/2 hours roundtrip from camp. We make the first ascents of the year for both peaks!
Day 3 (Tuesday, May 28): Pack out 7 miles in 4 hours.

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Sunday, May 26. We cross the dam for Lake Sabrina at the start of our pack in and are surprised to find hardly any water in the lake!
  • This zoom photo shows our climbing objectives: Mount Haeckel in the center and Mount Wallace, the snow-topped peak to the left.
  • Higher up the trail we see that the upper part of Lake Sabrina has some water, though the white face of the dam is exposed.
  • Betsy crosses the outlet of Blue Lake on some logs.
  • Next we get to Dingleberry Lake. Mount Haeckel is the snowy peak second from the left.
  • We set up camp at Midnight Lake, which is just visible on the right. We had planned to go to Hungry Packer Lake but missed the trail junction in the snow. Two French climbers come down to our camp after failing to summit Mount Haeckel because they did not have ice axes.
  • Day 2: Monday, May 27. We wake up to a nearly full moon just before dawn.
  • Half an hour later in the alpenglow we are ready to start our climb.
  • After an hour of climbing we see the moon about to set behind the beautiful north face of Mount Haeckel.
  • We get our first glimpse of the col that we will climb. It is the low point on the east ridge of Haeckel.
  • Betsy climbs to the col.
  • When we reach the col we see the imposing southeast face of Mount Haeckel. Our route goes down to the snow and then up the red-colored rock to the south ridge, which we follow to the summit.
  • Betsy nears the summit of Haeckel.
  • I reach the summit with Evolution Basin behind me to the northwest.
  • Betsy signs the register. We make the first ascent of the year!
  • I stand on top of Mount Haeckel. Mount Wallace is the prominent peak to the south. We descend to the frozen lake and then climb Wallace by going directly up the snow and rock face.
  • Betsy nears the summit of Wallace.
  • Betsy signs the register on top of Wallace. We again make the first ascent of the year.
  • Mount Darwin is the massive peak behind Haeckel looking north from Wallace. After a cloud-free morning, storm clouds are approaching so we do not stay long up high.
  • Betsy enjoys the snow that starts to fall after we cross the col on our way back to camp.
  • A pile of rocks called a duck helps us find our way back in the falling snow.
  • Day 3: Tuesday, May 28. After light snow during the night we awake to find that most of it has melted. We pack up and head down.
  • I cross the Middle Fork of Bishop Creek on rocks.
  • When I get back to the trailhead I celebrate another successful adventure!

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2012

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Betsy and I climbed Banner Peak and Mount Davis in June 2012. Here is our itinerary for this four-day trip.

Day 1 (Wednesday, June 6): Backpack from the trailhead by Silver Lake (7,215 ft) to camp at Thousand Island Lake (9,833 ft). We go 8 miles in 7 hours.
Day 2 (Thursday, June 7): Climb Banner Peak (12,945 ft) in 13 hours.
Day 3 (Friday, June 8): Climb Mount Davis (12,311 ft) in 10 hours.
Day 4 (Saturday, June 9): Backpack out 8 miles in 5 hours.

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Wednesday, June 6. Betsy starts backpacking up the Rush Creek Trail from the trailhead by Silver Lake.
  • We pose for a photo with Carson Peak behind us. The steep railroad track behind us allows cablecars to move up and down to service the Rush Creek Hydroelectric System.
  • We head for Clark Lakes at this trail junction and cross the Agnew Lake Dam.
  • We climb up this left (southeast) side of Agnew Lake. The dam for the higher and bigger Gem Lake is above. Another steep railroad track goes up to that dam.
  • Mount Ritter and Banner Peak come into view on the left as we get higher up on the day’s pack in.
  • Betsy poses with Thousand Island Lake just beyond.
  • We have a beautiful base camp for three nights by Thousand Island Lake with Banner Peak above.
  • Day 2: Thursday, June 7. Alpenglow is on Banner Peak at dawn.
  • Betsy is ready to start the climb up Banner Peak. We hike with day packs to the col to the right (west) of the peak and then climb the glacier on the other side.
  • Betsy nears the top of the glacier. Frozen Lake Catherine is far below.
  • This is the view from the top of the glacier to the east. I climbed Banner Peak from that side in 1970 with Mary before we were married along with my climbing buddies Don McEachern and Mel Merrill.
  • Betsy is ready to climb from the top of the glacier up the talus and rock face to the summit of Banner Peak.
  • Betsy happily signs the summit register 🙂
  • I sign it too.
  • This is the imposing north face of Mount Ritter, which was first climbed by John Muir in 1872. We had hoped to repeat that climb, but there is too much new snow on the route.
  • Garnet Lake is to the east.
  • Betsy glissades down the glacier but not very fast. Mount Davis is the bump above the snow in the upper right. We plan to climb it the next day.
  • Day 3: Friday, June 8. Betsy is ready to climb again. Today’s objective is Mount Davis, which is the high bump on the right end of the ridge above her.
  • We retrace the first part of yesterday’s climb and then traverse a rock face to this snowfield. Betsy places a pile of rocks called a duck to help us find our way back across the rock face.
  • We have a tedious stretch of talus to cross before getting to the easy snow on our way to Mount Davis.
  • Betsy nears the top of Mount Davis.
  • Betsy signs the summit register.
  • Rugged High Sierra peaks are to the northwest.
  • Thousand Island Lake where we are camped is to the east.
  • We have a great view of Banner Peak and Mount Ritter to the southeast. The route of our climb the day before is clearly visible.
  • Betsy is all smiles as she hikes down.
  • Day 4: Saturday, June 9. Betsy is ready to backpack out
  • A lot of water is flowing out of Thousand Island Lake.
  • Mammoth Mountain is the in the center to the southeast. We get back to the trailhead in good time (for us 🙂 ).

Mount Gayley Climbing Trip in 2008

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Mary, Gordon, and I climbed Mt Gayley in June 2008. Here is what we did each day.

Day 1 (Saturday June 21): Backpack 8 miles up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek from the trailhead at 7,700 ft to Sam Mack Meadow at 11,000 ft where we camp.
Day 2 (Sunday, June 22): Climb Mt Gayley at 13,510 ft in 13 hours roundtrip from camp.
Day 3 (Monday, June 23): Backpack out.

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Saturday, June 21. Here is our team of me, Gordon, and Mary at the trailhead.
  • Norman Clyde Peak dominates the view to the south above the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. We go right up the North Fork.
  • Mary stops to get water at Second Falls
  • Wildflowers and a butterfly provide some color.
  • We take a break above First Lake.
  • Temple Crag towers above Second Lake.
  • A hailstorm provides some excitement.
  • Before long the trail is covered in hailstones!
  • Eventually we arrive at Sam Mack Meadow, where we camp. I first camped here with my four siblings in 1971!
  • Gordon gets comfortable under his mini tent, which provides protection against mosquitos.
  • This is the view from inside.
  • Day 2: Sunday, June 22. We follow a trail to the base of Mt Gayley, which is above my head with Mt Sill to the right.
  • The trail ends near here with Mt Sill on the left and North Palisade on the right. We cross the left (east) side of Palisade Glacier and go up a steep snow slope to Glacier Notch behind the dark rock wall.
  • Mary and I use ice axes and crampons to climb the snow slope.
  • Gordon moves from the snow to the rock just below Glacier Notch.
  • I cross the snowfield between Glacier Notch and Mt Gayley. Our route goes directly up the red colored rock in the middle, which is called the Yellow Brick Road 🙂
  • Mary and Gordon are just below the summit. Glacier Notch is at the upper left.
  • We all make it to the top! North Palisade is above my head, and Thunderbolt Peak is above Mary’s head.
  • Middle Palisade, Norman Clyde Peak, and Palisade Crest are to the east.
  • Mts Winchell and Agassiz are to the west.
  • Mary glissades down the snow on the way back to camp.
  • Blocks of ice break off the toe of the glacier and fall onto the surface of a frozen lake.
  • Day 3: Monday, June 23. Gordon celebrates a successful climb with Mt Gayley above and Third Lake below!

Sierra Climbing Trip in 1978

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In May 1978, I joined Mary, my brother Jay, and climbing buddy Don McEachern on a climbing trip in the Sierra. We climbed Mts LeConte and Mallory, two tall peaks on the Sierra Crest southeast of Mt Whitney. Here is our itinerary.

Day 1 (Saturday, May 27): Pack 5 miles up the Meysan Lakes Trail from Whitney Portal Campground to Grass Lake, which is covered by snow.
Day 2 (Sunday, May 28): Climb both Mt LeConte, at 13,960 ft, and Mt Mallory, at 13,850 ft, in a single day!
Day 3 (Monday, May 29): Pack out.

I scanned my slides in early 2022 and prepared the following blog.

  • Day 1: Saturday, May 27. Here is our young team of Mary, me, Don, and Jay at the Meysan Lakes trailhead. The elevation is 7,900 ft.
  • Mary poses in her stylish outfit.
  • We start packing up the trail. It is about five miles to camp.
  • Eventually the trail becomes covered in snow. Whitney Portal Road is visible in the distance.
  • This is the view as we near our camp. Mt LeConte is the peak to the left of the snow-covered plateau, and Mt Mallory is the peak to the right of the plateau.
  • Our campsite is on a rock bench above frozen Grass Lake, at 10,900 ft. Two day hikers check an opening in the snow above the lake.
  • Mary soaks up some rays at camp. Because of the short pack in, we have plenty of time to rest before our climbs the next day.
  • I do a reconnaissance hike in the afternoon to get a better view of Mt LeConte, which is in the center. Our route goes up the snow chute and slope to the right of the three parallel rock ribs and then around the right ridge of Mt LeConte to follow the northwest chute to the summit.
  • Day 2: Sunday, May 28. We get an early start and plan our route, which is mostly on snow.
  • Our stylish team with ice axes and crampons approaches the bottom of the snow chute that leads to the summit plateau.
  • Jay takes a break on some rocks and puts on a jacket as the temperature drops.
  • The route steepens.
  • After we reach the snow-covered plateau, we go a short way down the other side to enter this northwest chute, which leads to the summit.
  • Climbing the chute is Class 3 except for 15 feet of Class 4 known as the Waterfall Pitch, shown here. Jay, Don, and I free climb it up and down, but Mary gets a rope belay both ways.
  • Mary puts down her ice ax as she nears the summit.
  • Mary stands on the summit of Mt LeConte, at 13,960 ft!
  • I make it to the top too!
  • So does Jay as well as Don, who takes this picture.
  • Mary signs the register. We make the first climb of the year!
  • Mt Langley is the massive peak to the south. Mt Corcoran is the nearby peak in between.
  • Mts Whitney, Russell, and Williamson are the prominent peaks to the north from left to right. Mt Mallory is at the end of the plateau below the snowfield on top of Mt Whitney. I get grudging agreement when I say that we should go over and bag Mt Mallory too, since we are so close.
  • There are smiles of relief and a great view after we summit Mt Mallory, at 13,850 ft!
  • Day 3: Monday, May 29. Mary packs out.