Climbing Blogs

California Climbing and Biking Trip in 2021

| wpfeiffer

Betsy and I spent five glorious days climbing and biking in Joshua Tree National Park and Owens Valley in November 2021. Here is what we did each day.

Day 1 (Thursday, November 4): Climb in Joshua Tree.
Day 2 (Friday, November 5): Bike near Lone Pine.
Day 3 (Saturday, November 6): Take Smoke’s climbing course in the Buttermilks near Bishop.
Day 4 (Sunday, November 7): Betsy takes a second day of the course, while Wayne bikes nearby.
Day 5 (Monday, November 8): Climb in the Alabama Hills near Lone Pine.

Here is my blog of our trip with lots of cool photos by Betsy.

  • Day 1: Thursday, November 4. After driving from Del Mar to Joshua Tree National Park, we hike nearly two miles to the entrance of the Chasm of Doom. The park is incredibly uncrowded.
  • I enthusiastically enter the Chasm of Doom with my headlamp on.
  • Before long I come to the Birthing Canal. To proceed, I wiggle on my back through a skinny passage under the rock at the top of the photo and then shimmy up a chimney.
  • The way opens up briefly to the view in the following photo.
  • This is the sunset view out from under the rock above my head in the previous photo.
  • After that I go back into the bowels of the Chasm. Here I make my way under another giant boulder.
  • Finally I make it through and am coming out!
  • Day 2: Friday, November 5. After our Joshua Tree climbing adventure we spend the night camped in Betsy’s van on dry Coyote Lake north of the park. Here I am just before sunrise.
  • Then we drive to Lone Pine in Owens Valley where we go for an afternoon out-and-back bike ride. This is near the start on Lubken Canyon Road. Lone Pine Peak stands out behind me.
  • Before long we get to Horseshoe Meadows Road, which goes for miles along the valley floor and then up into the Sierra.
  • Higher up we cross a creek with cottonwood trees in fall color.
  • After nine miles of uphill biking we reach the first switchback and turn around. Owens Lake, which is mostly dry, is behind me in the valley.
  • I whizz downhill just before the end of the bike ride. Afterward we drive to Bishop to check into the Craggin’ Classic climbing festival.
  • Day 3: Saturday, November 6. Betsy and I take Smoke’s rock climbing course in the Buttermilks, an area of giant boulders west of Bishop. This course commemorates Smoke Blanchard, who was Bishop’s first rock climber. Betsy talks to other students and Doug Robinson, at the far right. Doug organized the course and leads us on routes that he learned from Smoke.
  • At age 76, Doug solos the first climb. The rope is just to belay other climbers once he gets to the top. Note the bush below him.
  • Here I am on the same climb, having just reached that bush! Unlike Doug, I have a belay.
  • I make it to the top of my first climb of the day. Bernd, one of our guides, has me on belay.
  • Next we play follow-the-leader without any belays. Gregory, who is fourth in line, looks over the edge with some trepidation about his next step.
  • I go up my first chimney of the day with a belay from Ryan, our other guide. I apply counterforce to each side of the chimney to move upward.
  • Bernd is on top with a nice view from the Buttermilks to the Sierra Crest.
  • We play follow-the-leader on the last chimney of the day.
  • When the chimney widens near the top I put my back and hands on one side and feet on the other side. Jacob, a photographer for the American Alpine Club, is deep in the crack behind me taking cool photos.
  • Betsy does a hard final climb with a belay. I take an easy alternative route to the top 🙂
  • Day 4: Sunday, November 7. Betsy takes the second day of the climbing course, while I do out-and-back bike rides up Pine Creek Road and Bishop Creek Road. Here is the van at the start of the first ride on Pine Creek Road. Mount Tom is the massive mountain in the distance.
  • The first stretch of the bike ride up Pine Creek Road climbs gradually across the valley floor to the mouth of the canyon.
  • This herd of deer by the side of the road is unconcerned by my presence.
  • The canyon is narrow at its mouth but opens up here to show snow-capped Sierra peaks with fall color below.
  • I reach the end of the road after nine-and-a-half miles. Operations at the tungsten mine ended 20 years ago.
  • These golden cottonwood trees frame a nice view on the way down. The White Mountains in the distance are on the east side of Owens Valley.
  • Day 5: Monday, November 8. After we camp overnight in the Alabama Hills near Lone Pine, Betsy enjoys breakfast next to her van. Lone Pine Peak towers in the background.
  • This area is known as The Candy Store. The big rock on the left is Tootsie Pop, and the one on the right is Rock Candy. We climb two easy routes on the other side of Rock Candy.
  • Betsy is near the top of the Almond Joy route on Rock Candy. I climb it too!
  • We hike the beautiful Arch Loop Trail with Mount Whitney in the background. Many Western movies were filmed here.
  • Betsy stands on top of the Mobius Arch for which the trail is named. What a great trip we had!

Sierra Climbing and Kayaking Trip in 2021

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After missing a year because of the pandemic, Betsy and I were happy to again spend five days backpacking and climbing in the Sierra in June 2021. Our primary objective was the summit of Mount Lyell, the highest peak in Yosemite National Park. The morning of the sixth day we kayaked on Mono Lake to the east. Here is my blog of our trip.

  • Betsy trailhead
    Day 1: Sunday, June 13. We started at the parking lot for the Dog Lake Trail east of Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite and headed the opposite way (south) to the John Muir Trail; despite what the sign says, the JMT is almost a mile away; the elevation here is 8,700 ft.
  • After nearly a mile we reached the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River and crossed it on a sturdy bridge with two spans; the JMT is just beyond and shares the path with the Pacific Crest Trail; we followed the combined trail south along the west side of the river the rest of the day.
  • Much of the trail is in a pine forest, but occasionally we got to an opening with a nice view; here is our first glimpse of Donohue Peak, our climbing objective three days hence; we passed a steady stream of thru-hikers backpacking from Mexico to Canada on the PCT! we camped in the forest by the river after six miles of easy backpacking with very little climbing.
  • Day 2: Monday, June 14. The valley became more open as we continued south along the river; we got a good view of Mount Lyell, our climbing objective for the next day; it is the high peak in the center above the glacier, which is the source of the river; Mount Maclure is the slightly lower peak to the right of Lyell.
  • After crossing the river one more time on a bridge, we had to cross here on slippery rocks or take off our boots and wade; we opted for the latter; our feet were pretty cold when we reached the other side.
  • When the trail came to the next and last river crossing, we left it and backpacked cross country until we reached a good campsite near water at 11,000 ft; this was our base camp for two nights; our backpack distance was six miles again.
  • Day 3: Tuesday, June 15. We left camp before 6 am and soon began climbing with crampons, ice axes, and daypacks; the snow was firm with lots of sun cups, so we made good time; our tent is the tiny white spot above Betsy’s head between the pond and patch of snow.
  • Betsy is on the Lyell Glacier below the face of Mount Lyell; the climbing route goes up the steep snow chute in the center of the picture and then proceeds up the broken rock face to the summit ridge; the summit is at the far left.
  • Betsy nears the top of the snow chute, which is the steepest that I ever recall climbing; crampons with front points and ice axes were essential; the crux of the climb was just above, where we moved off the snow onto a rock ledge, removed our crampons, stowed them and our axes, and made our way up the rock face.
  • On the rock face we found several piles of rocks called ducks like the one here by my foot; placed by previous climbers, the ducks reassured us that we were going the right way 🙂 my ghostly pallor is from the sun screen with high SPF that Betsy gave me to protect against the sun on the snow at high altitude; it worked: I did not burn!
  • Climbing was easy along the summit ridge until the summit itself, where Betsy is dwarfed by the large rocks above.
  • Nonetheless, we soon reached the summit of Mount Lyell at 13,114 ft where we ate lunch, took pictures, and savored the view.
  • Here is the summit register and Betsy’s entry in the log documenting our climb; two other climbs the week before were noted elsewhere in the log.
  • Day 4: Wednesday, June 16. We packed up camp and headed back down the valley to climb Donohue Peak; its twin summits are the two leftmost bumps in the center of the picture, while the rightmost bump is Mount Andrea Lawrence; of the two Donohue summits, the eastern one to the right is higher, as we learned later in the day.
  • We went down the valley until we reached the river again; there we left our backpacks, put on daypacks, and rejoined the JMT/PCT, which crosses the river on easy rocks; we followed the trail toward Donohue Pass for a short distance and then headed cross country toward Donohue Peak.
  • We went directly up the ridge to the western summit, not realizing that there are two summits; the talus blocks became larger and more tedious to climb the higher we went; I regretted wearing shorts as I scraped my bare legs against the rough granite.
  • As we neared the western summit, we discovered the higher, eastern one shown here; it has smaller talus blocks separated by sand and would have been much easier to climb.
  • Betsy stands on the eastern summit of Donohue Peak at 12,023 ft with a benchmark next to her left foot; Mounts Lyell and Maclure are to the right of her in the distance; we began the day at the bottom of the snow field below them.
  • The benchmark confirms that we got to the right summit, even though it does not give the elevation; we did not find a register.
  • This is the spectacular view south to Banner Peak and Mount Ritter; Betsy and I climbed Banner (on the left) in 2012, and Mary and I climbed it with two good friends in 1970!
  • We descended by the easy north slope and then circled around the base of the peak to rejoin the JMT/PCT; there we saw this marmot, one of several that we encountered during our trip; after crossing the river on rocks, we put on our backpacks, descended a short distance, and waded the river to our last campsite in Yosemite.
  • Day 5: Thursday, June 17. We retraced our route of the first two days and covered the 10 miles to the trailhead in seven hours; here I wade across Ireland Creek; Betsy crossed on an upstream log, but I did not trust my balance; Betsy drove us in her van from the trailhead to the Tuolumne Meadows Grill where we ate burgers and shared stories with PCT thru-hikers 🙂
  • Day 6: Friday, June 18. This is Mono Lake from the visitor center; the green strip in the center follows Lee Vining Creek to the lake; Betsy drove us in her van down a dirt road to the boat landing left of the creek.
  • This plaque at the visitor center has information about the two large islands in the lake.
  • Betsy begins pumping up her kayak; normally it is folded and stowed beneath the bed in the back of her van.
  • After installing the seats, Betsy shows that the kayak is ready to go!
  • We paddled along the shore to a group of limestone tufa towers, which formed underwater when the water level was higher; the lake is green from algae now but will become clear later in the summer when brine shrimp eat the algae; then lots of birds will come and eat the shrimp!
  • Osprey nest on top of some of the towers; the lake is too salty for fish, so the osprey fly miles away to catch fish in freshwater lakes; the video below shows us cruising past an osprey on its nest; if you turn on the sound, you can hear the osprey call 🙂 ; after paddling for more than an hour, we washed off the kayak, packed it up, and deemed our trip another great adventure!

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2019

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Betsy and I spent five days backpacking and climbing in and above Little Lakes Valley in the Sierra in June 2019. Here is my blog of our trip.

  • Day 1: Sunday, June 16. Betsy and I arrive at the Mosquito Flat trailhead; this is the end of Rock Creek Road at 10,300 ft and the usual start for backpacking in Little Lakes Valley; however, we had to start lower, about a mile and a half back, because several snow patches on the road had not been plowed
  • Betsy crosses one of the last bridges on our pack in; after this the trail became less distinct, and we crossed streams on rocks or snow bridges
  • Our spectacular campsite was on the rock bench immediately to the right of partially frozen Long Lake; our climbing objectives were the rightmost and leftmost of the four peaks in the distance: Mount Dade (13,600 ft+) and Pyramid Peak (12,840 ft+)
  • Day 2: Monday, June 17. We climbed Mount Dade, the high peak on the right; most of the climb was on snow; the steep, 1,000-ft Hourglass in the middle was the hardest part; we originally planned to camp at the Treasure Lakes, shown here, but realized once we got to Long Lake that they would still be frozen over
  • View down from the top of the Hourglass to the Treasure Lakes and Long Lake; we still had another 1,000 ft to climb on mixed snow and rock to the summit; the snow above was not so steep but softer, so we often postholed to our knees
  • After two more hours of exhausting climbing, we reached the summit of Mount Dade! Here I am on top with Mount Abbot to the right of center
  • View from the summit down the last part of the climb; the top of the Hourglass is at the lower left; Bear Creek Spire is the prominent peak in the upper center; the cloudless sky of the morning was replaced by ominous clouds nearby
  • Betsy documented our climb in the summit register; as she noted, we had some drama on the last part of the climb, including snow, hail, and thunder! Some rugged guy from Madison did a winter climb this year on skis!
  • Day 3: Tuesday, June 18. After 13 hours of climbing and descending the day before, we decided to enjoy an easy day; here Betsy reads in our kitchen above Long Lake 🙂
  • This is our bedroom, next to the kitchen 🙂 My clothes are drying after getting soaked in the snow the day before; in the afternoon, we hiked up the talus slope in the middle to the base of the granite tower
  • Here I am near the top of the talus slope with Long Lake below
  • Betsy and I savor the stunning scenery; Bear Creek Spire is on the left, while Mounts Abbot and Mills are on the right; Mount Dade is behind us, out of view
  • Day 4: Wednesday, June 19. Today’s objective is Pyramid Peak on the left; we went right of frozen Dade Lake and then left up the snow and eventually the rock
  • Betsy climbs yet another steep snow slope; we used crampons going up and an ice ax going both up and down
  • Betsy nears the top of the climb; we traversed alternating ribs and chutes until we found a way to the summit
  • Betsy touches the summit cairn! By the time we got back to Long Lake (in the distance), we had spent 14 hours climbing and descending! The next day, we had an easy pack out 🙂

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2015

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Betsy and I spent five days backpacking and climbing in the Sierra in June 2015. We did a big clockwise loop that took us through the Evolution Basin where many peaks are named after famous scientists who did pioneering work in evolution and genetics. We climbed three mountains, packed over three passes (one without a trail), got snowed on the last two days, and did not see another person from the time we left the trailhead until just before we returned.

My blog of our wilderness adventure follows.

  • Day 1: Monday, June 1. Betsy is at North Lake for the start of our wilderness adventure.
  • Betsy packs above Lower Lamarck Lake.
  • North Lake, where we started, is the second lake far below to the northeast. Owens Valley and the White Mountains are in the distance.
  • The trail is steep as we approach camp.
  • I am still clean and wearing shorts just below camp.
  • Day 2: Tuesday, June2. We pack up to Lamarck Col on snow.
  • This is the view of Mt Lamarck north of the col.
  • Betsy is on top of Mt Lamarck at 13,417 ft with the slightly higher Peak 13,464 in back to the northwest. We climbed both.
  • Mts Wallace and Haeckel are prominent to the south. We made their first ascents of the year in 2013 when there was less snow.
  • Mts Darwin and Mendel are closer and even more prominent to the south. We decided that there was too much snow for us to climb them.
  • This is Darwin Canyon to the west of Lamarck Col.
  • This curious marmot came close as we made our camp in Darwin Canyon.
  • Day 3: Wednesday, June 3. Betsy packs through Darwin Canyon.
  • The canyon opens up to this view to the west of Darwin Bench.
  • We pack north toward our camp at the far end of the frozen lake. Mt Goethe, our afternoon climbing objective, is the rounded peak on the left.
  • We leave our packs at camp and climb Mt Goethe to the west. Betsy follows me up the summit ridge.
  • Betsy finds the summit register. We make the first ascent of the year!
  • Betsy poses on the summit of Mt Goethe at 13,264 ft. Our camp is at the isthmus between the two lakes below. We get back to camp at 8:45 pm.
  • Day 4: Thursday, June 4. We leave camp and pack north over the trail-less Alpine Col.
  • This is the view south from the col. Our camp the night before was at the far end of the lake.
  • This is the view north from the Col. We need to go down to Goethe Lake where we will camp.
  • Packing down the huge talus blocks is tedious. A few snowflakes begin to fall to add to the drama.
  • Betsy tries the snow instead and postholes, so that is just as bad.
  • Eventually we make it to our camp at Goethe Lake after a hard day. New snow is coming.
  • Day 5: Friday, June 5. We awake to a sunny day after an inch of snow overnight. We still have more talus to traverse to the left of the lake.
  • Betsy packs out past the last of the talus as snow starts to fall again. Mt Goethe is to the left of center.
  • Mt Humphreys, Checkered Demon, and Mt Emerson are the three prominent peaks north of Muriel Lake. A good trail begins on the other side of the lake.
  • Betsy reaches Paiute Pass and the junction with the trail out. It is snowing again with occasional lightning and thunder!
  • I head down through the last of the snowflakes. Thankfully the lightning in the clouds overhead ends.
  • I touch our car back at North Lake to officially end our wilderness adventure 🙂

Mount Shasta Climbing Trip in 2013

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Betsy and I climbed Mount Shasta at 14,179 ft in June 2013 for our second climbing trip of the year. Here is our itinerary for this two-day trip.

Day 1 (Saturday, June 8): Drive from Oakland to the town of Mount Shasta to eat lunch. Drive from town to the Bunny Flat trailhead at 6,950 ft. Pack 4-1/2 hours up the trail in Avalanche Gulch to Helen Lake at 10,400 ft where we camp for the night.
Day 2 (Sunday, June 9): Leave Helen Lake at dawn, and climb to the summit and back in 9 hours. Pack out in 2-1/2 hours, have dinner in town, and drive back to Oakland.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather. It was in the 50s with no wind when we were on the summit. Two days later the forecast was for a high in the 30s with gusts to 70 mph!

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Saturday, June 8. We enjoy this nice view of Mount Shasta from a turnout on I-5.
  • We get our wilderness permit and summit pass at the Bunny Flat trailhead.
  • We put on our packs are are ready to climb up the standard Avalanche Gulch route, which is above Betsy’s head.
  • After a short way we get to Horse Camp where Betsy fills up her water bottle from this spring coming out of a pile of rocks. This is the only running water on the climb.
  • Further up the trail these white pasqueflowers are growing out of the rocks.
  • A cloud of dust marks a rockfall, which stopped before reaching us.
  • We follow footprints in the snow as we head for Helen Lake. It is the broad rocky ridge in the right center of the picture, and the only water there is frozen as snow.
  • We camp on a flat spot with a great view of the forests far below!
  • After setting up camp we check out our climbing route for the next day. It goes up the snow to the right of The Heart and then through Red Banks to the summit ridge. You can see tracks in the snow from previous climbers.
  • Day 2: Sunday, June 9. After a restless night we are awakened by early risers who start the climb with headlamps in the dark.
  • We wait until the light of dawn before starting our climb. We won’t get lost with all of the climbers ahead of us.
  • As we approach The Heart we have this great view of the shadow of Mount Shasta to the west. I stop for awhile to catch my breath since I have not had time to acclimate to the altitude.
  • The crux of the climb is going through this notch in Red Banks, which are well named.
  • Betsy follows the trail higher up where the snow has melted.
  • Betsy poses with the summit on the upper right. The weather is great!
  • Betsy waits for me on the summit as every step I take is a struggle in the thin air. We have a lot of company.
  • We briefly have the highest point to ourselves.
  • Going down is easy, especially where we can glissade on the snow above and below Red Banks.
  • By the time we get back to camp the mountain seems deserted. We pack up and make good time going down to finish another great adventure!

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2013

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Betsy and I climbed Mounts Haeckel and Wallace in May 2013. Here is our itinerary for this three-day trip.

Day 1 (Sunday, May 26): Pack from the trailhead at Lake Sabrina (9,128 ft) to camp at Midnight Lake (10,988 ft). We go 7 miles in 5-1/2 hours.
Day 2 (Monday, May 27): Climb Mounts Haeckel (13,418 ft) and Wallace (13,377 ft). This takes us 12-1/2 hours roundtrip from camp. We make the first ascents of the year for both peaks!
Day 3 (Tuesday, May 28): Pack out 7 miles in 4 hours.

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Sunday, May 26. We cross the dam for Lake Sabrina at the start of our pack in and are surprised to find hardly any water in the lake!
  • This zoom photo shows our climbing objectives: Mount Haeckel in the center and Mount Wallace, the snow-topped peak to the left.
  • Higher up the trail we see that the upper part of Lake Sabrina has some water, though the white face of the dam is exposed.
  • Betsy crosses the outlet of Blue Lake on some logs.
  • Next we get to Dingleberry Lake. Mount Haeckel is the snowy peak second from the left.
  • We set up camp at Midnight Lake, which is just visible on the right. We had planned to go to Hungry Packer Lake but missed the trail junction in the snow. Two French climbers come down to our camp after failing to summit Mount Haeckel because they did not have ice axes.
  • Day 2: Monday, May 27. We wake up to a nearly full moon just before dawn.
  • Half an hour later in the alpenglow we are ready to start our climb.
  • After an hour of climbing we see the moon about to set behind the beautiful north face of Mount Haeckel.
  • We get our first glimpse of the col that we will climb. It is the low point on the east ridge of Haeckel.
  • Betsy climbs to the col.
  • When we reach the col we see the imposing southeast face of Mount Haeckel. Our route goes down to the snow and then up the red-colored rock to the south ridge, which we follow to the summit.
  • Betsy nears the summit of Haeckel.
  • I reach the summit with Evolution Basin behind me to the northwest.
  • Betsy signs the register. We make the first ascent of the year!
  • I stand on top of Mount Haeckel. Mount Wallace is the prominent peak to the south. We descend to the frozen lake and then climb Wallace by going directly up the snow and rock face.
  • Betsy nears the summit of Wallace.
  • Betsy signs the register on top of Wallace. We again make the first ascent of the year.
  • Mount Darwin is the massive peak behind Haeckel looking north from Wallace. After a cloud-free morning, storm clouds are approaching so we do not stay long up high.
  • Betsy enjoys the snow that starts to fall after we cross the col on our way back to camp.
  • A pile of rocks called a duck helps us find our way back in the falling snow.
  • Day 3: Tuesday, May 28. After light snow during the night we awake to find that most of it has melted. We pack up and head down.
  • I cross the Middle Fork of Bishop Creek on rocks.
  • When I get back to the trailhead I celebrate another successful adventure!

Sierra Climbing Trip in 2012

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Betsy and I climbed Banner Peak and Mount Davis in June 2012. Here is our itinerary for this four-day trip.

Day 1 (Wednesday, June 6): Backpack from the trailhead by Silver Lake (7,215 ft) to camp at Thousand Island Lake (9,833 ft). We go 8 miles in 7 hours.
Day 2 (Thursday, June 7): Climb Banner Peak (12,945 ft) in 13 hours.
Day 3 (Friday, June 8): Climb Mount Davis (12,311 ft) in 10 hours.
Day 4 (Saturday, June 9): Backpack out 8 miles in 5 hours.

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Wednesday, June 6. Betsy starts backpacking up the Rush Creek Trail from the trailhead by Silver Lake.
  • We pose for a photo with Carson Peak behind us. The steep railroad track behind us allows cablecars to move up and down to service the Rush Creek Hydroelectric System.
  • We head for Clark Lakes at this trail junction and cross the Agnew Lake Dam.
  • We climb up this left (southeast) side of Agnew Lake. The dam for the higher and bigger Gem Lake is above. Another steep railroad track goes up to that dam.
  • Mount Ritter and Banner Peak come into view on the left as we get higher up on the day’s pack in.
  • Betsy poses with Thousand Island Lake just beyond.
  • We have a beautiful base camp for three nights by Thousand Island Lake with Banner Peak above.
  • Day 2: Thursday, June 7. Alpenglow is on Banner Peak at dawn.
  • Betsy is ready to start the climb up Banner Peak. We hike with day packs to the col to the right (west) of the peak and then climb the glacier on the other side.
  • Betsy nears the top of the glacier. Frozen Lake Catherine is far below.
  • This is the view from the top of the glacier to the east. I climbed Banner Peak from that side in 1970 with Mary before we were married along with my climbing buddies Don McEachern and Mel Merrill.
  • Betsy is ready to climb from the top of the glacier up the talus and rock face to the summit of Banner Peak.
  • Betsy happily signs the summit register 🙂
  • I sign it too.
  • This is the imposing north face of Mount Ritter, which was first climbed by John Muir in 1872. We had hoped to repeat that climb, but there is too much new snow on the route.
  • Garnet Lake is to the east.
  • Betsy glissades down the glacier but not very fast. Mount Davis is the bump above the snow in the upper right. We plan to climb it the next day.
  • Day 3: Friday, June 8. Betsy is ready to climb again. Today’s objective is Mount Davis, which is the high bump on the right end of the ridge above her.
  • We retrace the first part of yesterday’s climb and then traverse a rock face to this snowfield. Betsy places a pile of rocks called a duck to help us find our way back across the rock face.
  • We have a tedious stretch of talus to cross before getting to the easy snow on our way to Mount Davis.
  • Betsy nears the top of Mount Davis.
  • Betsy signs the summit register.
  • Rugged High Sierra peaks are to the northwest.
  • Thousand Island Lake where we are camped is to the east.
  • We have a great view of Banner Peak and Mount Ritter to the southeast. The route of our climb the day before is clearly visible.
  • Betsy is all smiles as she hikes down.
  • Day 4: Saturday, June 9. Betsy is ready to backpack out
  • A lot of water is flowing out of Thousand Island Lake.
  • Mammoth Mountain is the in the center to the southeast. We get back to the trailhead in good time (for us 🙂 ).

Mount Gayley Climbing Trip in 2008

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Mary, Gordon, and I climbed Mt Gayley in June 2008. Here is what we did each day.

Day 1 (Saturday June 21): Backpack 8 miles up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek from the trailhead at 7,700 ft to Sam Mack Meadow at 11,000 ft where we camp.
Day 2 (Sunday, June 22): Climb Mt Gayley at 13,510 ft in 13 hours roundtrip from camp.
Day 3 (Monday, June 23): Backpack out.

Photos and commentary follow.

  • Day 1: Saturday, June 21. Here is our team of me, Gordon, and Mary at the trailhead.
  • Norman Clyde Peak dominates the view to the south above the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. We go right up the North Fork.
  • Mary stops to get water at Second Falls
  • Wildflowers and a butterfly provide some color.
  • We take a break above First Lake.
  • Temple Crag towers above Second Lake.
  • A hailstorm provides some excitement.
  • Before long the trail is covered in hailstones!
  • Eventually we arrive at Sam Mack Meadow, where we camp. I first camped here with my four siblings in 1971!
  • Gordon gets comfortable under his mini tent, which provides protection against mosquitos.
  • This is the view from inside.
  • Day 2: Sunday, June 22. We follow a trail to the base of Mt Gayley, which is above my head with Mt Sill to the right.
  • The trail ends near here with Mt Sill on the left and North Palisade on the right. We cross the left (east) side of Palisade Glacier and go up a steep snow slope to Glacier Notch behind the dark rock wall.
  • Mary and I use ice axes and crampons to climb the snow slope.
  • Gordon moves from the snow to the rock just below Glacier Notch.
  • I cross the snowfield between Glacier Notch and Mt Gayley. Our route goes directly up the red colored rock in the middle, which is called the Yellow Brick Road 🙂
  • Mary and Gordon are just below the summit. Glacier Notch is at the upper left.
  • We all make it to the top! North Palisade is above my head, and Thunderbolt Peak is above Mary’s head.
  • Middle Palisade, Norman Clyde Peak, and Palisade Crest are to the east.
  • Mts Winchell and Agassiz are to the west.
  • Mary glissades down the snow on the way back to camp.
  • Blocks of ice break off the toe of the glacier and fall onto the surface of a frozen lake.
  • Day 3: Monday, June 23. Gordon celebrates a successful climb with Mt Gayley above and Third Lake below!

Sierra Climbing Trip in 1978

| wpfeiffer

In May 1978, I joined Mary, my brother Jay, and climbing buddy Don McEachern on a climbing trip in the Sierra. We climbed Mts LeConte and Mallory, two tall peaks on the Sierra Crest southeast of Mt Whitney. Here is our itinerary.

Day 1 (Saturday, May 27): Pack 5 miles up the Meysan Lakes Trail from Whitney Portal Campground to Grass Lake, which is covered by snow.
Day 2 (Sunday, May 28): Climb both Mt LeConte, at 13,960 ft, and Mt Mallory, at 13,850 ft, in a single day!
Day 3 (Monday, May 29): Pack out.

I scanned my slides in early 2022 and prepared the following blog.

  • Day 1: Saturday, May 27. Here is our young team of Mary, me, Don, and Jay at the Meysan Lakes trailhead. The elevation is 7,900 ft.
  • Mary poses in her stylish outfit.
  • We start packing up the trail. It is about five miles to camp.
  • Eventually the trail becomes covered in snow. Whitney Portal Road is visible in the distance.
  • This is the view as we near our camp. Mt LeConte is the peak to the left of the snow-covered plateau, and Mt Mallory is the peak to the right of the plateau.
  • Our campsite is on a rock bench above frozen Grass Lake, at 10,900 ft. Two day hikers check an opening in the snow above the lake.
  • Mary soaks up some rays at camp. Because of the short pack in, we have plenty of time to rest before our climbs the next day.
  • I do a reconnaissance hike in the afternoon to get a better view of Mt LeConte, which is in the center. Our route goes up the snow chute and slope to the right of the three parallel rock ribs and then around the right ridge of Mt LeConte to follow the northwest chute to the summit.
  • Day 2: Sunday, May 28. We get an early start and plan our route, which is mostly on snow.
  • Our stylish team with ice axes and crampons approaches the bottom of the snow chute that leads to the summit plateau.
  • Jay takes a break on some rocks and puts on a jacket as the temperature drops.
  • The route steepens.
  • After we reach the snow-covered plateau, we go a short way down the other side to enter this northwest chute, which leads to the summit.
  • Climbing the chute is Class 3 except for 15 feet of Class 4 known as the Waterfall Pitch, shown here. Jay, Don, and I free climb it up and down, but Mary gets a rope belay both ways.
  • Mary puts down her ice ax as she nears the summit.
  • Mary stands on the summit of Mt LeConte, at 13,960 ft!
  • I make it to the top too!
  • So does Jay as well as Don, who takes this picture.
  • Mary signs the register. We make the first climb of the year!
  • Mt Langley is the massive peak to the south. Mt Corcoran is the nearby peak in between.
  • Mts Whitney, Russell, and Williamson are the prominent peaks to the north from left to right. Mt Mallory is at the end of the plateau below the snowfield on top of Mt Whitney. I get grudging agreement when I say that we should go over and bag Mt Mallory too, since we are so close.
  • There are smiles of relief and a great view after we summit Mt Mallory, at 13,850 ft!
  • Day 3: Monday, May 29. Mary packs out.