I joined Betsy, her friend Erin, Erin’s dad Chris, and friends Stu and Michelle for several days of rock climbing in Joshua Tree National Park. We stayed in a funky Airbnb called Neon Moon just outside the main entrance to the park. Here is what we did each day.
Day 0 (Monday, March 23): I drive from Del Mar to San Pedro where I meet Betsy, who just returned by ferry from Catalina from a weekend wedding. We drive to Joshua Tree, find Neon Moon, and join Erin and Chris, who arrived earlier. Day 1 (Tuesday, March 24): The four of us go for a warmup hike to the top of the small peak behind Neon Moon. Afterward, we drive to Turtle Rock in the park and climb the first pitch of the 5.5 route called Blistering. Erin and Betsy then climb the first pitch of the 5.4 route called Easy Day, while Chris makes it partway up. Afterward, Chris and I go for a hike on the Hidden Valley Trail, while Betsy and Erin do a more challenging climb. Day 2 (Wednesday, March 25): Stu comes from Palm Springs, and all five of us go to Intersection Rock. We climb the 5.3 route called Upper Right Ski Track and then do a long rappel down. My harness digs into my back on the rappel and leaves me with a sore back, but I still manage to bike back to Neon Moon with Chris. The other three do a more challenging climb before Stu heads home. Day 3 (Thursday, March 26): My back is very sore when I wake up, and I am relegated to walking and taking pics the rest of the trip. I do a loop walk in the neighborhood, while Betsy, Erin, and Chris do some ambitious hiking and scrambling in the park. Day 4 (Friday, March 27): I do another loop walk in the neighborhood. Betsy and Erin spend the day climbing, and Chris does another long hike in the park. Day 5 (Saturday, March 28): Stu and Michelle come from Palm Springs, and all six of us go to Cyclops Rock. Everyone but me climbs the classic 5.4 route called The Eye, though Chris only gets partway up. We then walk to Gateway Rock, and everyone but me does the rock scramble through the Chasm of Doom! We have dinner at The Tiny Pony in Yucca Valley before Stu and Michelle go home. Day 6 (Sunday, March 29): Erin and Chris go for a short hike, and we all check out of Neon Moon and head for home.
Day 0: Monday, March 23. This is the terminal in San Pedro for the ferry to and from Catalina Island.
Huge cranes loom over the terminal like creatures from Star Wars!
Day 2: Tuesday, March 24. This is Neon Moon at the base of the nearby peak, our first climbing objective.
Betsy, Erin, and Chris are ready to go for a hike!
We do a little rock scrambling near the top of the peak.
We have a great view looking south into the park.
I take some pics of the local flowers. These are Parish’s goldeneyes.
And these pretty flowers are of Mojave woodyaster.
Brilliant pink flowers of beavertail pricklypear are in bloom.
And we see lots of these desert dandelions.
This is the northeast side of Turtle Rock, our major climbing objective for the day. The 5.4 Easy Day route is up the left side of the flat wall in the center, while the 5.5 Bristling route is halfway between that and the left skyline.
Betsy leads up Bristling to set the belay anchor for the rest of us.
Betsy sets the anchor at the top of the first pitch, which is all we will do.
Chris works hard to get around the cave just below the top, which is the crux of the climb.
Now it’s my turn to climb.
After a struggle getting up the crack to the right of the cave, I make it to the top of the pitch! This is my best climb in years! I get cheers from a peanut gallery of park visitors down below 🙂
Erin zips up the climb to clean the anchor.
Back on the ground, we meet guide Cory and client Kevin, who were climbing on Easy Day next to us and also cheered us on! We tell stories and share snacks 🙂
After Erin sets a belay anchor on Easy Day, Betsy positions herself to take cool pics of Chris.
Chris works his way higher up the near-vertical face with a belay from Erin.
Chris climbs higher still before calling it a not-so-easy day.
Betsy goes up to clean the route.
Betsy is near the anchor at the top.
This is the start of the Hidden Valley Nature Trail.
This plaque notes the change in the vegetation since the last Ice Age.
We give this silver cholla a wide berth.
Narrowleaf goldenbush flowers add some color along the trail
This Joshua tree has a big white bloom!
A cluster of phacelias is also blooming.
And so is this Mojave yucca.
These spectacular flowers are of kingcup cactus! Spring is a great time to see color in the desert!
Day 3: Wednesday, March 25. This is the north side of Intersection Rock. Our route involves scrambling up the easy rocks on the right to the prominent ledge in the middle and climbing with rope protection up the diagonal crack to the summit. Three tiny climbers on the ledge give a sense of scale. At 150 ft high, this is a big rock!
This map shows three routes on Intersection Rock. We do the easiest 5.3 one in the middle called Upper Right Ski Track. I would not want to ski down!
Betsy leads the scramble to the starting ledge.
We near the top of the scramble.
I slowly make my way up the crack with continual encouragement from Stu, who is climbing behind me.
I near the top of the climb with barefoot Betsy belaying both me and Stu.
Betsy and I share high fives!
Here is our team of three: myself, Stu, and Betsy.
Stu, Chris, Erin, myself, and Betsy round out the full team of five on top!
Stu and Betsy set up the rappel anchor.
I am really uneasy about doing this rappel, but Betsy says that it’s the only way down! Somehow I manage a smile as I start the rappel!
I am near the top of the rappel down a long, blank face!
Thankfully, I near the bottom of the rappel. When I get to the ledge I meet guide Cory and client Kevin who will do the climb too. I tell Kevin that it’s the hardest climb that I ever did! However, Cory tells Kevin he will do just fine 🙂
After our successful climb, Chris and I get on our bikes to ride back to Neon Moon.
I give a thumbs up on the ride 🙂
Day 3: Thursday, March 26. The reflective glass on this house allows it to blend into the landscape. Closeby is the famous Invisible House, which is fully clad in reflective glass and is invisible to me!
This is a peaceful house.
This small house has a big Joshua tree.
Here is another view of Neon Moon.
This house is a work in progress. Two guys seem to be doing all the work themselves.
Day 4: Friday, March 27. Three coyotes walk by while we are having breakfast! One runs off with a cornhole bag, while this one looks around for something more 🙂
Here is a closeup of a desert dandelion
This sign warns people to watch out for tortoises, but I don’t see any.
This silver cholla has some flowers.
Two California quail look for something to eat.
This gully is lined by dandelions!
Some old-timey wheels are next to the dirt road.
While Betsy and Erin are climbing, they see a horned lizard. Can you see it too? (Thanks to Betsy for the cool pic!)
Day 5: Saturday, March 28. This is the west side of Cyclops Rock, with its window called The Eye in the upper center.
Chris, Erin, Betsy, Stu, and Michelle are ready to climb The Eye.
Betsy leads the route.
Betsy goes around the upper cave and nears the top.
Betsy belays both Erin and Chris, while Erin gives Chris suggestions on possible holds. Chris runs out of steam and gets lowered down.
Michelle quickly moves up the climb.
She passes the upper cave and is nearly up to Betsy’s belay.
Stu is the last climber up, while Michelle and Betsy watch from above.
After all the climbers are up, Betsy stands barefoot in the actual eye! (Thanks to Erin for the cool pic!)
Erin and Betsy celebrate on the very top of Cyclops Rock! (Thanks to Michelle for the cool pic!) On the scramble down the back of Cyclops Rock they encounter a big rattlesnake!
After we hike to Gateway Rock, Chris finds the secret entrance to the Chasm of Doom.
Chris, Erin, Stu, and Michelle scramble out the exit from the Chasm! (Thanks to Betsy for the cool pic!)
While waiting for the return of the Chasm explorers, I see a white-tailed antelope squirrel cooling off under a car in the afternoon heat.
Nearby, a sara orangetop butterfly feeds on blue dicks.
Back at Neon Moon we have a great sunset to end our last full day in Joshua Tree!
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